Give us our daily milk bread

In a previous post I talked about my obsession with baking rustic loaves using my trusty starter “Barney,” who I’m proud to report is still alive and kicking.  But lately, my favorite bread to bake at home is Milk Bread, the incomparably fluffy, pull-apart tender carb of my dreams.  Its pillowy texture sort of reminds me of the bread I grew up eating as a kid–soft like Wonder and a little sweet like King’s Hawaiian, yet infinitely more complex in flavor and texture.  The dough can be shaped into individual rolls or pull-apart loaves.  You can form the loaves by either shaping six rounds or dividing the dough into 4 pinwheel rolls snuggled next to each other in the pan. The latter method is a great way to incorporate another flavor into the mix–matcha pastry cream, coconut and ube jam, passion fruit curd, cinnamon sugar.


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My favorite is still the plain version, warm from the oven and slathered in butter and jam.  If you happen to have some bread leftover, two-day old Milk Bread makes wonderful french toast.

Milk Bread is particularly popular in Asian bakeries, where you can find variations of the classic “Hokkaido Milk Bread,” eponymously named for a region in Japan famous for their superior dairy.  What makes this style of bread so soft and airy is the technique of cooking a milk roux or “tangzhong” to use as the base for the dough.  It’s a relatively quick and easy step that produces a heavenly texture.

I’ve adapted a recipe that can be made in a food processor fitted with a dough blade–my preferred method–although you can still use a stand mixer with dough hook (just takes a little longer mixing time).

Milk Bread

Yield:  One 9″ x 5″ loaf

Tangzhong:

  • 3 T. whole milk
  • 3 T. water
  • 2 T. bread flour

Whisk together ingredients in a small saucepan over medium heat until mixture becomes really thick and leaves distinct lines on the bottom of the pan.  Remove from heat.

Dough:

  • 2 1/2 c. bread flour
  • 1 T. instant yeast
  • 2 T. non-fat dry milk powder
  • 1 1/4 t. kosher salt
  • 4 T. unsalted butter
  • 3 T. honey
  • 2 T. sweetened condensed milk
  • 1/2 c. whole milk
  • 2 large eggs

Place the dry ingredients in the food processor and pulse until combined.  While the tangzhong is still hot, whisk in the butter, honey, and sweetened condensed milk until the butter is melted, then whisk in the milk and one egg until smooth.  Gradually pour the liquid through the feeding tube while pulsing intermittently to incorporate into the flour mixture.  Continue pulsing at 2 second intervals until dough is smooth and elastic–this should take a couple of mins.  Transfer the dough into a greased bowl large enough for dough to double in size.  Spray dough surface with non-stick spray, cover bowl with plastic wrap, and allow dough to proof until doubled in a warm space.

Gently deflate the proofed dough, divide into six equal portions, and form each portion into a smooth rounds.  Fit the rounds into a greased 9″ x 5″ loaf pan, loosely cover and allow to proof again until doubled.  Use the second egg (beat with 1 T. water) to make an egg wash to brush onto the surface of the proofed loaf.

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Bake loaf in a preheated 350°F oven for about 35-40 mins. to deep golden brown.  Internal temperature should register between 190-195°F.  Cool loaf on a wire rack for about 10 mins. before unmolding.

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Then pull apart and enjoy!

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