One of the positive things about being quarantined and not working in an office on a set schedule is that I’ve been able to focus some (okay, a lot) of my creative energy on cooking and baking projects, which consequently provides me with ample snacks to indulge in with my afternoon tea. In the beginning it was the usual suspects–scones, chocolate chip cookies, pop tarts, brownies–but as I shifted my interests to recreating childhood Chinese favorites the flavor profiles and textures have changed dramatically. Don’t get me wrong, I wouldn’t turn down a chocolate peanut butter bar or cinnamon apple fritter, which, incidentally, I made over the weekend with leftover yeasted donut dough I accidentally pulled, then thawed from the freezer. But there is still so much more of my food heritage I want to explore, more food stories to tell.

One of those stories centers on my dad, who in his later years, barring illness, would take 2 buses practically every afternoon down to Chinatown from our home in the Outer Sunset, to meet up with his buddies at a bakery/coffeeshop to shoot the breeze. During the 1989 SF earthquake, poor Dad was stranded down there for hours, finally making it home that evening after having walked a good 15 miles before managing to catch a bus. Much to Mom’s consternation, despite his health issues ( a double whammy of heart problems and pancreatic cancer), come rain or shine, he’d be on that bus.

Dad knew his life was getting shorter and more unpredictable–all the more reason to enjoy the simple pleasures of sitting down with his friends over a cup of coffee or milk tea and a snack. He was really there for the good conversation and companionship, though Dad certainly wouldn’t have denied himself a cocktail bun or savory pastry. It was the one time he could freely indulge himself without anyone (aka Mom) lecturing him about his salt, sugar, and fat intake.

I suppose these days you could, if you wanted to, find some reasonably “healthier” options at the trendier Asian bakeries, but then you’d be taking indulgence out of the experience–and what’s the fun in that? When I step into an old school Chinese bakery, I often picture Dad browsing the pastry case in search of a tasty treat to go with his afternoon tea–and by tasty I mean rich and buttery, something that would sustain him over prolonged conversations.

I’m not sure if Dad ever chose the Chinese bakery classic Sa Kei Mah–it definitely would’ve lasted through at least a couple cups of tea–but it’s one of my favorites.

Before there were Rice Krispy Treat on my horizon, there was this puffy, fried egg pastry bound in thick, sticky sweet syrup–sort of like krispy treats supersized. Although this specialty is widely available commercially pre-packaged at most Asian markets, nothing beats a freshly made one from a bakery…or a dim sum house for that matter. Until I decided to tackle making sa kei mah at home, the only thing I was sure of was that there would be frying involved.

The dough for the delicately fried pastry is actually a leavened egg pasta, rolled out in thin sheets and cut into short narrow strips. As soon as the noodles hit hot oil they immediately puff up, so making this at home requires frying many small batches to guarantee consistent outcome. Each batch takes no more than 3 mins. to fry to a crispy pale golden. The thick syrup used to coat these fried puffy strips usually consists of water, sugar, and maltose, however the proportions of each vary from recipe to recipe, as I soon discovered.

I should stress again, for those who might’ve missed my post about Hong Kong custard tarts, my Cantonese sucks and Mandarin is foreign language to me. That said, I really shouldn’t try following instructional videos in Mandarin without subtitles, because I will invariably miss more than a few crucial nuggets of information–like oil temperature, texture of the fried noodle, etc. My erroneous assumptions led to, among other things, my first batch of noodle strips being over-fried and golden brown because I was under the misconception that they needed to be really dry and crisp. And, for whatever reasons, my dough came out on the soft and sticky side, which made rolling and cutting the dough a bit challenging, despite a heavy dusting of cornstarch. I did, however, make enough syrup to properly coat all the crispy dry strips, so the entire endeavor wasn’t a complete fail. It may not have looked the way it should’ve, but it tasted surprisingly good–caramelized with a hint of nuttiness.

On my second attempt, I went with a recipe from a YouTube video with subtitles–this is where I discovered what I did wrong with the previous batch. Everything was looking good…until I coated the puff strips. There just wasn’t enough syrup in the recipe to properly bind the puff strips together, so when I tried to unmold and cut the sa kei mah into squares the pieces came apart. Plus less eggs in the dough, which was great for rolling and cutting, ultimately resulted in a less flavorful fried pastry. Back to the drawing board and YouTube for more research.

For my third and final batch, I played with separate recipes for the noodle and syrup. I liked the idea of using some additional egg yolk to enrich the pasta dough but I felt using all bread flour wasn’t necessary. As for the syrup, I’m a fan of maltose so I came up with a syrup that was maltose forward, similar to the syrup I used on my first batch. Like batch #2, I fried the strips at around 325F degrees to keep the pale golden color, but this time I made sure I had enough syrup to coat and bind the pastry together. The result?

Bolstered by my success with the sa kei mah, I decided to recreate another Chinese bakery treat I often associate with sa kei mah–Chinese Almond Cookies. There’s a famous bakery in LA called Queens Bakery that’s known for making both very well.

Once again, I let my assumptions (and confidence) get the better of me. How hard could they be to make? Well, let me tell you, not as easy as I thought to capture that distinct buttery, crisp, almost sandy texture and deep almond flavor.

I went through at least 5 different versions. What I realized was that the one which came closest to looking and tasting like a traditional Chinese almond cookie wasn’t actually the cookie everyone liked the best. My test tasting friends all chose the last version–inspired by a peanut butter cookie–as their favorite. I have to agree. It has a richer, more rounded toasty almond flavor, which comes from the almond butter paste made with ground toasted sliced almonds and almond extract, and not to mention a thin crispy, buttery texture.

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As my friend Michael pointed out to me, sometimes deviating from tradition can be a very good, very delicious thing.

Balancing out all the sweet bakery treats, I recreated a petite version of a popular savory pastry–BBQ Pork Pastry Turnovers–using some leftover Chinese puff pastry dough I saved in the freezer from my custard tart adventures and homemade char siu.

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Chinese puff pastry is made by encasing an “short” or butter dough inside a “water” dough (or basic pie dough), then rolling and folding them together a couple of times to create layers that will puff and expand when baked. I filled and formed the turnovers much like the steamed wheat starch wrapper dumplings, then brushed the surface with egg wash, cut slits to vent steam and baked them to a burnished golden brown.

Whether you enjoy these snacks with a cup of coffee or milk tea sitting at a Chinese bakery, take them to go or make them yourself to savor at home, I encourage you to take a page from my dad’s story–sit a spell and relish the simple pleasures of afternoon breaks and great conversation with friends.

Sa Kei Mah

Yield: 12-16 pieces

• 3/4 c. all-purpose flour
• 3/4 c. bread flour
• 1/4 t. sea salt, divided
• 1/2 t. baking soda
• 2 large eggs + 1 yolk, lightly beaten
• cornstarch for dusting
• neutral oil for frying (about 3 c.)
• 1/2 c. maltose syrup*
• 2/3 c. sugar
• 1/2 c. water
• 3 T. desiccated coconut
• 2 T. lightly toasted sesame seeds

*can substitute honey or golden syrup for the maltose

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1. Combine flours, 1/8 t. salt, and baking soda in a medium bowl, then create a well in the center.
2. Pour the beaten egg in the well and stir (preferably with chopsticks) to incorporate flour into the eggs to form a shaggy dough. If the mixture feels a little too dry, sprinkle in water a teaspoon at a time, just until the dough begins to come together. Don’t make the dough too wet or soft otherwise it will get too sticky to roll out.
3. Knead the dough for about a minute to form a dough mass. Cover and let the dough rest for 15 mins. to relax the glutens, then knead it some more until the dough is smooth and elastic. Cover dough again and let is rest for 1 hour.
4. Divide the dough in half, keeping the unused half covered, and roll out the dough on a surface dusted with cornstarch, into a very thin long sheet, about 1/16″ thick.
5. Cut the dough sheet into 4 quadrants, then lightly dust with cornstarch and stack them. Cut the stack in half lengthwise, then cut each stack into 1/4-1/6″ wide strips. Toss the strips to loosen and separate each strand. Lay the strips out onto a sheet pan lightly dusted with cornstarch. Cover and repeat the process with the other half of the dough.
6. Heat the oil in a heavy bottom pot (at least 2″ oil) to about 320-325F degrees. Keep it on a medium low heat. Test the oil by dropping one strip in. It should float almost immediately.
7. Fry the dough strips in small batches, about a handful at a time, until very pale golden, turning them constantly with long chopsticks and/or metal spider to ensure even frying.
8. Transfer the fried strips onto sheet pan lined with paper towels or into a heatproof, large metal strainer. set over a sheet pan. Set the fried dough strips to cool while you make the syrup.
9. In a saucepan combine the water, maltose, sugar and remaining 1/8 t. salt. Stir just to dissolve the sugar on medium heat. Attach a candy thermometer to the pan and let the mixture boil undisturbed until it reaches between 230-235F degrees.
10. While the syrup is cooking transfer the dough strips into a large wide bowl. Carefully drizzle 1/3 of the cooked syrup over the strips and toss to coat. Sprinkle in sesame seeds and 1 T. coconut. Continue drizzling and tossing until all the strips are fully coated in the syrup.
11. Sprinkle 1 T. coconut into the bottom of an 8″ x 2″ square greased and parchment-lined pan, pour in the coated strips and press with a spatula to fit everything in. Sprinkle on the remaining coconut. Place a sheet of plastic wrap or wax paper lightly coated in non-stick spray against the surface and use a rolling pin to further press and level off the surface.
12. Let the pan chill in the freezer for about 5 mins. to set the syrup, then carefully unmold and cut the sa kei ma into 12 or 16 pieces.

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Traditional Chinese Almond Cookies

Yield: 16 cookies

• 1 stick + 1 T. unsalted butter, room temperature
• 1/3 c. sugar
• 1 large egg, slightly beaten (reserve 1 T.)
• 1/2 t. almond extract
• 1 c. all-purpose flour
• 1 T. cornstarch
• 1/4 c. almond flour
• 3/4 t. baking soda
• scant 1/4 t. sea salt
• 16 whole almonds or 1/4 c. sliced almonds

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1. Cream together butter and sugar until fluffy, then beat in beaten egg and almond extract.
2. Whisk together the remaining dry ingredients and beat into the butter.
3. Cover and chill dough for at least 1 hour. Divide evenly into 16 portions and roll out into balls.
4. Place dough ball on parchment lined baking sheets and slightly press down to flatten surface. Press a single almond or arrange 3 almond slices in the center of each dough. Brush surface with egg wash made with 1 T. reserved beaten egg and 1 t. water.
5. Bake in pre-heated 325F degree oven for 15-20 mins. or until golden brown.

Mimi’s Chinese Almond Cookies

Yield: about 16-18 cookies

• 1 1/4 c. all-purpose flour
• 3/4 t. baking powder
• 1/4 t. baking soda
• 1/2 t. sea salt
• 4 oz. unsalted butter, room temperature
• 1 c. sugar
• 1 egg, lightly beaten (reserve 1 T. for glaze)
• 3/4 t. almond extract
• 1/2 t. vanilla
• 1 1/4 c. sliced almonds, divided
• 1 T. neutral oil

1. Reserve 1/4 c. sliced almonds and set aside for garnish.
2. Place the remaining almonds in a dry sauté pan and toast on medium heat, tossing and stirring constantly, until lightly golden. Set aside them to cool.
3. In a blender or small chopper, grind the nuts with the oil and small pinch of salt until it becomes a fairly smooth thick paste. Should get about 1/2 c.
4. Cream the butter and sugar in a mixer until smooth, add the almond paste, and continue beating until fluffy, then mix in the remaining beaten egg, along with almond and vanilla extracts until fully incorporated.
5. Sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt, then add to the mixer.
6. Blend everything together on medium low speed, scraping down the sides of the bowl about halfway through. Don’t over mix.
7. Chill dough for about 30-45 mins. or until firm enough to scoop into approximately 1/2 oz. balls.
8. Place dough balls on parchment lined baking sheets at least 2″ apart. Lightly press down to level off surface or press a fork dusted with flour in a cross-hatch patten. Arrange 2-3 reserved almond slices on top.
9. Mix the reserved 1T. beaten egg with about 1 t. water, then brush the tops with the egg wash.
10. Bake in a preheated 375F degree oven for 12-15 mins. or until the cookies are light golden brown. Cool cookies on a rack.

BBQ Pork Pastry Turnovers

Yield: about 16 pieces

Chinese Puff Pastry

• 1 1/2 c. all-purpose flour, divided
• 1 t. sugar
• 1/4 t. sea salt
• 1/4 c. shortening
• ice water
• 1/3 c. unsalted butter, room temperature
• egg wash (1 egg + 1 t. water)

1. Combine 1 c. flour, sugar, salt and shortening in a bowl. Using 2 forks or a pastry cutter, work the ingredients together until mixture resembles coarse bread crumbs.
2. Gradually drizzle in ice water a teaspoon at a time as necessary to moisten flour mixture enough to form a shaggy dough.
3. Press and gently knead the dough to form a dough ball. Wrap the dough in plastic and use a rolling pin to press it out into a 4″x 6″ package. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
4. Place the remaining 1/2 c. flour in a bowl and cut in the butter until mixture resembles coarse bread crumbs. Use your hands to press mixture into a dough mass, wrap it in plastic and press it into a 3″x 6″ package. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
5. To form the puff pastry, roll the first dough (with shortening) out into an 8 1/2″ x 5″ rectangle, with the long side running horizontally in front of you.
6. Place the other dough in the center so that there’s a little more than 2 1/2″ of the first dough on either side of it, then fold the 2 sides towards the center, and pinch the seam to enclose the center dough.
7. Roll the entire package out to 6″ x 18″ sheet, then fold into thirds towards the center (like a letter fold). Repeat the process.
8. Wrap and refrigerate the dough for at least 30 mins. before using.
9. To make the turnovers, roll dough out to 1/6-1/8″ thickness and use a 3″ round cutter to punch out disks.

BBQ Pork Filling

• 8 oz. char siu pork, diced into 1/4″ pieces
• 2 t. light soy sauce
• 2 t. hoisin sauce
• 2 t. oyster sauce
• 2 t. honey or maltose syrup
• 1/2 t. sesame oil

1. Combine all the ingredients in bowl and toss together to fully coat the pork.
2. To form turnovers, place about a tablespoon of filling just slightly off center on a disk of dough. Brush egg wash on the upper edge of the disk, fold over and pinch to seal.
3. Place the turnovers on a parchment-lined baking sheet and brush the surface with egg wash. Cut 2 small diagonal slits to vent steam as the turnovers bake.
4. Bake in a preheated 400F degree oven for 15-18 mins or until golden brown.